drunk plantains

today i went to santa tecla, which has a giant indoor market and lots of stalls that spill out for blocks. after pushing my way off the bus, i saw a sign that said "$2 haircuts." yes! i had a lovely haircutting experience, talking with the three women working there since there were no other customers. they really liked my hair. i went in wearing my orange baseball cap. at the end of the haircut, the woman who cut my hair said rather scoldingly, are you going to put your hat back on? uh, no? i said. i think that was the right answer. she blow dried it very meticulously and put in some gelly substance called "silicone polisher" and i breezed away into the market.

the indoor market is a grimy, chaotic labyrinth. sorry, no pictures - too dark, and i was not brash enough to use a flash in people's faces. there are fruits, vegetables, fish with flies, meat, fabric, ribbons, little places to eat, belts, shoe repair, clothes, etc. it is like reading terminal market in philly, except denser, darker, larger, and without those pesky health codes. throughout the afternoon i ducked in and out, exploring different sections. shop owners yelled out "what are you looking for, princess?!" some dudes grabbed at my arms. good thing i covered my arms in acid. BURNED dudes.

i bought a pirated dvd of the last harry potter movie for $1. i wandered through the two giant parks, where many little stalls were also set up. here is a park.
one giant used clothing store was having some kind of event. i entered the store and there was a clown with a microphone - terrible. in the sale section of this store, i found exactly what i was looking for that i didn't even know i was looking for:

the salesguy was very amused that i was buying this, but was trying to keep a straight face. on the receipt, he listed the garment as simply "german." the tag says "flexitard" - a great word. obviously there is no size on the tag, it is one size fits none. it was $2. i am elated. please note that it has stirrups. amazing.

naturally, i partook of the food as well. i got some sugarized tamarind balls, which i think did irreparable damage to my teeth. a little cart was selling plantains that were grilled in the peel. oh YES. the lady shimmied the plantain out of its blackened peel and it was all soft and hot. then she did something i couldn't see and put a fork in it and handed it to me. it looked like it had spit all over it. although i was a bit put-off, i obviously tasted it. aha! it was beer, not spit. and it was delicious!

on the bus ride home, i sat next to a guy who i slowly learned was drunk. he turned to me and asked me if he could have my number. i said no. then he tried to give me his cell phone. no, it's yours, i said. no, he replied, it's yours. this happened six times. granted, the thought did cross my mind that my cell phone was very broken, and his was nicer than mine even. but no, that is rude. i think. he seemed quite genuine in the offer. then he tried to give me his sweatshirt. no no. the worst souvenir.